The evolution of microblading: tools, pigments and techniques in 2024

Microblading has come a long way since its arrival in Europe about 10–15 years ago. Back then, the techniques, tools and pigments available were limited, but over the years the industry has seen significant advancements. In 2024 we are using state-of-the-art tools and specially formulated pigments that allow for more precise, long-lasting and natural results. In this article we explore the key differences between microblading in the past and today, focusing on the evolution of tools, pigments and techniques — and especially how pigment selection has become more sophisticated based on skin type.

The evolution of microblading tools

In the early days of microblading, much of the focus was on the tools, specifically the blades. Microblading involves creating tiny, superficial incisions in the skin to deposit pigment, so the quality and design of the blades used are crucial for precise results. Over the years, microblading blades have evolved in both shape and size — from basic flat blades to more diverse options like oblique, round and ultra-thin blades as small as 0.14 mm.

These advancements in blade technology have allowed artists to create finer, more natural-looking hairstrokes that blend seamlessly with the client's existing brow hairs. The precision offered by today's blades reduces skin trauma, making the healing process smoother and faster, and contributing to better pigment retention.

Pigments then and now: the shift from tattoo-like formulas

Another area of significant advancement is the development of pigments. In the early days, pigments were similar to those used in traditional tattoos. These early formulas didn't fade much over time, which became a problem as clients' facial features changed with age or as beauty trends evolved. Sun exposure and other environmental factors caused these pigments to alter in colour, resulting in an unnatural appearance.

Today, pigments used in microblading are designed to fade more gracefully, with a focus on true-to-colour fading. This means that as the pigment lightens, it retains its original hue without shifting into unwanted colours like red, blue or green — which was common with older pigment formulations.

But one of the most notable advancements is the development of organic and inorganic pigments, each suited to different skin types and client needs.

Organic vs inorganic pigments: tailoring to skin type

A key aspect of successful microblading lies in the correct selection of pigments. The choice between organic and inorganic pigments — or a mix of both, which is often the case in today's pigments with either organic or inorganic prevalence — can significantly impact how well the pigment is absorbed by the skin and how it fades over time.

Organic pigments are carbon-based and generally offer vibrant, long-lasting colour. However, they often contain carbon black, a component that can cause the pigment to shift towards grey over time. While this grey shift may be acceptable for clients with cooler undertones or lighter skin, it's essential to evaluate whether it will harmonise with the client's natural colour palette. Organic pigments are also more stable for oily skin types, which tend to push pigment out faster due to excess sebum — in these cases, the durability and absorbency of organic pigments make them a better choice.

Inorganic pigments, on the other hand, are preferred for clients with thinner, mature or sensitive skin, as well as very fair skin. These pigments provide a softer, more natural finish and tend to fade more predictably over time. Unlike their organic counterparts, inorganic pigments fade without significant colour shifts, making them ideal for clients looking for subtle, natural results. They are, however, harder to deposit into the skin, requiring greater precision and experience from the artist.

Hybrid pigments: combining the best of both worlds

Most pigments used today are hybrid pigments, blending the strengths of both organic and inorganic components. A pigment might be predominantly organic or inorganic, but it often includes elements of both to enhance its performance. For example, a hybrid pigment with a majority organic base might offer better retention on oily skin while still fading more gracefully like an inorganic pigment. These hybrid formulations give artists more flexibility to customise their approach based on the client's unique skin type and preferences.

Choosing the right pigment based on skin type

For clients with oily skin, the excess sebum can prevent pigments from settling in properly. Organic pigments are generally better suited for these skin types, as they offer more stability and longevity. However, the risk of the pigment turning grey due to carbon black content must always be considered — this cooler shift might work well for some clients but be undesirable for others.

Conversely, clients with thinner, mature or very fair skin often benefit from the use of inorganic pigments. These pigments deposit more smoothly into delicate skin and fade evenly over time without drastic colour changes. The more subtle look provided by inorganic pigments is often preferable for older clients seeking a natural appearance, and for fair-skinned clients the predictable fading ensures that the brows remain soft and natural without turning an unnatural shade.

Patterns and techniques: the evolution of hairstrokes

The evolution of microblading isn't limited to tools and pigments. The techniques used to create the desired brow shape and hairstrokes have also evolved. In the past, hairstrokes were often placed too closely together, which looked beautiful immediately after treatment — but over time, the pigment would spread slightly, causing the strokes to blur together and create a patchy appearance.

Today, artists have learned to space the strokes more widely, allowing the pigment to fade more naturally and reducing the risk of blurring. This technique is especially important for clients with oily or thicker skin, where the pigment has a greater tendency to expand. By carefully spacing the strokes, artists can ensure that the brows remain defined and natural-looking for a longer period.

Aftercare: then vs now

One often overlooked aspect of microblading that has seen substantial change is aftercare. In the past, the advice was to leave the treated area alone. However, modern aftercare practices have evolved significantly. We now know that keeping the area clean and hydrated in the first few days after the procedure is crucial for proper healing and pigment retention. Clients are advised to gently wash the area and apply a healing ointment to prevent infection and ensure optimal results. Proper aftercare helps maintain the sharpness of the hairstrokes and reduces the risk of pigment migration.

Conclusion: the future of microblading

The microblading industry continues to evolve, with innovations in pigments, tools and techniques leading to better, more natural results. While the perfect pigment may not exist, today's options allow artists to tailor their approach to each client's specific skin type, ensuring the best possible outcome. Whether through organic, inorganic or hybrid pigments, the goal is always the same: to deliver beautiful, long-lasting brows that complement the client's natural beauty.

As we look toward the future, continued advancements in pigment formulation and application techniques promise even more exciting developments. The quest for the perfect pigment is far from over.