Microblading has come a long way since its arrival in Europe about 10-15 years ago. Back then, the techniques, tools, and pigments available were limited, but over the years, the industry has seen significant advancements. In 2024, we are using state-of-the-art tools and specially formulated pigments that allow for more precise, long-lasting, and natural results. In this blog, we'll explore the key differences between microblading in the past and today, focusing on the evolution of tools, pigments, and techniques, particularly how pigment selection has become more sophisticated based on skin type.
In the early days of microblading, much of the focus was on the tools, specifically the blades. Microblading involves creating tiny, superficial incisions in the skin to deposit pigment, so the quality and design of the blades used are crucial for precise results. Over the years, microblading blades have evolved in both shape and size, from basic flat blades to more diverse options like oblique, round, and ultra-thin blades that are as small as 0.14mm.
These advancements in blade technology have allowed artists to create finer, more natural-looking hair strokes that blend seamlessly with the client’s existing brow hairs. The precision offered by today’s blades reduces skin trauma, making the healing process smoother and faster, and contributing to better pigment retention.
Another area of significant advancement in microblading is the development of pigments. In the early days, pigments were similar to those used in traditional tattoos. These early formulas didn’t fade much over time, which became a problem as clients’ facial features changed due to aging or as beauty trends evolved. Additionally, sun exposure and other environmental factors caused these pigments to alter in color, resulting in an unnatural appearance.
Today, pigments used in microblading are designed to fade more gracefully, with a focus on true-to-color fading. This means that as the pigment lightens, it retains its original hue without shifting into unwanted colors like red, blue, or green, which was common with older pigment formulations.
But one of the most notable advancements is the development of organic based and inorganic based pigments, each suited to different skin types and client needs.
A key aspect of successful microblading lies in the correct selection of pigments. The choice between organic and inorganic pigments, or a mix of both (which is often the case in today's pigments. With organic or inorganic prevalence ), can significantly impact how well the pigment is absorbed by the skin and how it fades over time.
are carbon-based and generally offer vibrant, long-lasting color. However, they often contain carbon black, a component that can cause the pigment to shift towards grey over time. While this grey shift may be acceptable for clients with cooler undertones or lighter skin, it’s essential to evaluate whether this will harmonize with the client’s natural color palette. Organic pigments are also more stable for oily skin types, which tend to push pigment out faster due to excess sebum. In these cases, the durability and absorbency of organic pigments make them a better choice.
On the other hand, **inorganic pigments** are preferred for clients with thinner, mature, or sensitive skin, as well as very fair skin. These pigments provide a softer, more natural finish and tend to fade more predictably over time. Unlike their organic counterparts, inorganic pigments fade without significant color shifts, making them ideal for clients looking for subtle, natural results. However, these pigments are harder to deposit into the skin, requiring greater precision and experience from the microblading artist.
combining the Best of Both Worlds
Most pigments used today are **hybrid pigments**, blending the strengths of both organic and inorganic components. A pigment might be predominantly organic or inorganic, but it often includes elements of both to enhance its performance. For example, a hybrid pigment with a majority organic base might offer better retention on oily skin, while still fading more gracefully like an inorganic pigment. These hybrid formulations give microblading artists more flexibility to customize their approach based on the client’s unique skin type and preferences.
For clients with oily skin, the excess sebum can prevent pigments from settling in properly. Organic pigments are generally better suited for these skin types, as they offer more stability and longevity. However, the risk of the pigment turning grey due to carbon black content must always be considered. While this cooler shift might work well for some clients, it could be undesirable for others.
Conversely, clients with *thinner, mature, or very fair skin* often benefit from the use of inorganic pigments. These pigments deposit more smoothly into delicate skin and fade evenly over time without any drastic changes in color. The more subtle look provided by inorganic pigments is also often preferable for older clients seeking a natural appearance. For fair-skinned clients, the predictable fading of inorganic pigments ensures that their brows remain soft and subtle without turning an unnatural shade.
The evolution of microblading isn't limited to tools and pigments. The techniques used to create the desired brow shape and hair strokes have also evolved. In the past, hair strokes were often placed too closely together, which looked beautiful immediately after treatment, but over time, the pigment would spread slightly, causing the strokes to blur together and create a patchy appearance.
Today, artists have learned to space the strokes more widely, allowing the pigment to fade more naturally and reducing the risk of blurring. This technique is especially important for clients with oily or thicker skin, where the pigment has a greater tendency to expand. By carefully spacing the strokes, artists can ensure that the brows remain defined and natural-looking for a longer period.
One often overlooked aspect of microblading that has seen substantial change is *aftercare*. In the past, the advice was to leave the treated area alone. However, modern aftercare practices have evolved significantly. We now know that keeping the area clean and hydrated in the first few days after the procedure is crucial for proper healing and pigment retention. Clients are advised to gently wash the area and apply a healing ointment to prevent infection and ensure optimal results. Proper aftercare helps maintain the sharpness of the hair strokes and reduces the risk of pigment migration.
The microblading industry continues to evolve, with innovations in pigments, tools, and techniques leading to better, more natural results. While the perfect pigment may not exist, today's options allow artists to tailor their approach to each client’s specific skin type, ensuring the best possible outcome. Whether through organic, inorganic, or hybrid pigments, the goal is always the same: to deliver beautiful, long-lasting brows that complement the client's natural beauty.
As we look toward the future, continued advancements in pigment formulation and application techniques promise even more exciting developments. Who knows what new innovations will emerge in the coming years? One thing is certain: the quest for the perfect pigment is far from over.
